Pinnochio- Tacul- 22 Dec

The last few days saw Tim emmett and myself head up to the Abri Simond to do some of the best climbing I have ever done. On Monday we headed over to Pinnochio which has long been a route I have wanted to do. Whilst it is not in great nick for the moment (ie very thin ice in parts) it is still do-able. A very varied and excellent climb- I highly recommend it.

Tim Emmett on the crux



Tim Emmet dislodging a rather large snow block on the crux



Me on the final exit pitch, © Tim Emmett

Yesterday saw us head over to a climb that Bullock and Baird had done the previous day. Bullock had spotted a line next to Hit Machine on the Lachenal which co-incidentally Will Sim and I had spotted only recently too. However having now been up it I can happily say that I am glad I was with someone alot better than me as the leading was incredibly delicate and awkward on often very loose rock. Bit too much for me…

Tim Emmett on the start of the new Bullock/ Baird route (they are still checking whether this is a new line)


Otherwise Supercouloir is in nick for the moment. The direct start is a little thin but has been done. Pellissier gully on the Lachenal looks very fat for the moment.
Otherwise the Gabbarou and Modica now have a track going up to them through the snow field. The Modica is looking a wee bit thin but once again both are climbabale.
the Cosmiques couloir is also in ok nick for the moment. Expect a bit of mixed though as its not 100% formed.
The ski out down the ‘James Bond track’ is also great for the moment- in fact it is so good that they have actually bought a piste-bully up there and groomed it.

Happy christmas all

Anticyclone moving in

Good news for Christmas as there is an anticyclone moved into the area for the next few days. Should mean good clear weather for the next week or so which is great news considering all the mixed weather we have had so far. Off piste skiing is all either windblown or sun affected. Otherwise the piste skiing probably doesnt get much better as you can ski every piste, even down into town.

Ice in the valley is ok from the looks of it. Johnny Baird ( his site )reports that the easier part of the Cremerie has collapsed which sounds a bit odd considering the weather we have had but he reckons a combination of heavy snow sitting ontop of the ice and melt water underneath led to its collapse…rock, ice and snow rubble everywhere apparently. The harder part of the cremerie is still ok though (Moby Dick etc).

The north faces are looking a little bare to be honest but I cant fully comment on certain routes as didnt get any high res shots of them.

Up high its anyone’s guess for the moment. I am heading up today for a few days so will report back when we come back down on Wednesday…

Chamonix update...17 Dec

Just got down off the Midi this afternoon. Conditions up high are lethal for the moment. There was an incredibly strong (120kmph) easterly wind off the Midi yesterday which shifted overnight to a strong North Westerly. Coupled with this it has been dumping non-stop since about 4am this morning meaning that there were some very nasty slabs already forming on southerly slopes on the way back to the Midi. My skins broke enroute which meant I was in waist deep snow for part of the walk…there really is that much snow up there. Also this was at about 2pm and no doubt there will be even more there now.

The glaciers are also very badly covered for the moment which was a bit surprising. The shrunds around the Midi are not very well filled in at all and there were some big holes visible further along the Midi col. This fresh snow fall will have covered some of them up no doubt but they will be very weak snow bridges.

Most of N Italy is experiencing some of the heaviest snow it has seen in years with many parts of Aosta completely shut off.

Ice wise its not awesome up high either. We climbed part of the Cosmiques icefall yesterday but it turned out to be more of a Scottish dry tooling adventure than alpine ice. cant comment on anything else as it was a whiteout for most of our time up there.

Fun in the sun in Italy

Today saw a crack team crowd of British climbers (not me) descend upon the Helbronner lift where we once again headed down the Tulla glacier for the last of the powder. Whilst not as good as yesterday there were still some patches to be had but it was definitely getting very hot and sluggish in the sun. Bad weather on the way now bringing alot more snow in….fingers crossed

Jonathan Baird reports great conditions in Cogne..check out his website for ice climbing pics to give you an idea

Kenton Cool, Simon, and Tim Emmett

Epic powder day

Today saw myself, Kenton Cool, and Matt Helliker head over to Italy. Last season we all ended our ski season with an outstanding week of skiing together which involved some of the best powder I have ever skied day after day. It was only fitting therefore that our first outing together for this season should begin exactly where we left off last season. Amazing powder was to be had all day in Italy and we managed to avoid the crowds meaning that epic descents were followed up by quick (lift) ascents. By the end of the day the powder was still impeccable, but I’ll let the photos show that for you….

Matt Helliker ripping it up on the first descent



Kenton Cool enjoying some serac action



Kenton Cool deep in the white stuff



Matt Helliker hitting the steeps



Matt Helliker in front of the Aig Noire du Peuterey in the evening sun



Matt Helliker enjoying the champagne powder

First powder day at Grand Montets

Apart from the crowds the first proper powder day at GM was fantastic. Lots of very deep powder and some great tree skiing to be had. Not much open, but tomorrow they are going to open the Bochard so if you can deal with the crowds (as its a Sunday and its amazing weather) that would be the place to head to…

the Season has definitely started- 5th Dec

Apologies for the lack of updates but I have been away for the last month. Now I’m back in Chamonix and its looking great. Last night it dumped for hours and is still snowing now so there will be some great powder to be had this weekend. Otherwise I have toured up to the Lognon a few times and the icefalls on the Argentiere glacier (RHS) are forming really nicely. Not all are in condition but the big walls such as Grand Bleu and Icelander wall are looking climbable. The Twins are also starting to form nicely but have yet to form completely (still early days yet).

I have a photo that I will upload later of the icefalls

Added to this the Cremerie will no doubt have formed by now as Valley temps have been low for quite a while now. Its possible that there will be some melt running underneath them but I dont think it will be a major problem. The main issue is having to break trail through all this snow to get there

Otherwise there are reports that the Colonne at the Col Des Montets is formed and the Les Houches ice fall is also coming along well in the last few days. I think in a couple of days this should be climbable too.

Higher up I have no idea as all the lifts have been shut so no-one has ventured up high. And why would you with all this snow about? Skiing wise only the Grands Montets is open for the moment but as of tomorrow it will be open for the season which is good news.

We will be heading over to the Argentiere icefalls in the next few days so will report back then

The Secret- third ascent

While I’m enjoying the delights of London there are or more to the point were good conditions up in Scotland. Tony Stone and Blair Fyffe put up the third (?) ascent of The Secret which is awesome for them. Well done to them

To keep up to date here are some Scottish blogs:

Talisman blog
Ian Parnell blog
High Mounaineering blog