April 15th 2014

Dent du Requin - Beaumont Gaby

I’m enjoying getting on random routes for the moment- lines that aren’t often climbed and still hold that ‘will it or wont it go’ mystique. Unfortunately random lines often require exceptional conditions which we definitely don’t have at the moment, but when Korra suggested we do the North Face of the dent du Requin I had to admit that I hadn’t even heard of the route before. We headed in as two rope teams- myself, Colin, Ben, and Korra- and hoped for a fun day out. What we actually encountered was unconsolidated sugar snow on slabs. As the rest of the route looked like it would entail pitch after pitch of unpleasant sketchy climbing we headed over to the right and ended up climbing a really fun route called the Baumont-Gaby. It’s a really good alternative to the Ice is Nice lines in the area and quite a step harder given how thin it is- it’s never pumpy, just delicate fun chamonix climbing. The crux pitches are 4 long and thin corner pitches that are really worth a visit right now.

Korra and Ben on the lower gully at sunrise

Korra and Ben on the lower gully at sunrise

Korra on the first mixed pitch

Korra on the first mixed pitch

Korra on the first mixed pitch

Korra on the first mixed pitch

The South Face of the Aig Fou

The South Face of the Aig Fou

Colin on the second mixed pitch

Colin on the second mixed pitch

Colin on the second mixed pitch

Colin on the second mixed pitch

Colin on the second mixed pitch

Colin on the second mixed pitch

Korra on the second pitch

Korra on the second pitch

More great climbing on the second pitch

More great climbing on the second pitch

Colin tops out of the 4th pitch

Colin tops out of the 4th pitch

Hmm sun and 'summit'

Hmm sun and ‘summit’

Korra tops out

Korra tops out

A very hot descent down the backside to our skis

A very hot descent down the backside to our skis

The Alpine Exposures coffee table photo book