Headed up the Gervasutti Pillar two days ago and ended up massively underestimating it. Its never too hard but it is long. Amazing climbing nevertheless on incredible granite.
From the base of the red pillar though you now either have to go straight up it or contour round it to the right involving some harder rock than the route and some interesting mixed climbing. Thanks to Will for leading the rock here! The normal way is to skirt round left of the Red Pillar but I really wouldnt recommend it for the moment- we saw two enormous rockfalls come down that way when we were about to enter it so decided to abort the voie normal (ie big enough so that the rock was trembling underfoot). Whilst we were racing up the route this last section took a long time as we had to do some new route finding as well as ice climbing with just walking axes and one ski touring axe.
Definitely recommend the route but just be prepared for some more climbing directly up the Red Tower or contour round to the right.
On the lower section of the Gervasutti at sun rise, © Jon Griffith
Will entering the 80m chimney pitch, © Jon Griffith
© Jon Griffith
Will nearing the last of the Gervasutti pillar, © Jon Griffith
Summit of the Tacul, © Jon Griffith
Descending from the summit at sunset, © Jon Griffith
Amazing sunset over the seracs of the Tacul, © Jon Griffith
Woot, I will cetrailny put this to good use!
Hi Alban
There are tons of good bivy spots but you shouldnt need to bivy if you get an early start.
The mixed was ‘engaging’ as we didnt have any ice screws and our touring axes were a little useless. No idea what it would be like now though
The dangerous part left of the Red Tower you could get down in a 15minute sprint solo i guess
There are a few ptions here and there but mainly alot of bolted belays
Set of nuts, 6 or 7 cams up to camalot no 2. Draws- depends on whether you want to simul climb it
Yes, one day. Most people do it in a day. Those who dont end up not doing so because they get benighted not out of choice
The normal way off the Tacul is fine
The rock quality is pretty incredible
At the top it gets pretty loose so I wouldnt want to be below any body
Beautiful route and amazing pictures. Are there any good bivy places on the route. How hard is the mixed terrain? Is it possible to secure it in ice (srews) or in rock( camelots in cracks, pitons…)? How long is the not so nice and as i heard dangerous climbing part? Are there many pitons in place on the lower rockpart? What kind of equipement would you suggest? (camelots 0,3-2?, how many express-slings?) Did you do the route in one single day? How is the normal way down at the moment?How is the rock-quality in the lower part (heard it should be good)and in the upper part). With which other big classic route is the gervasutti-pillar comparable? From the climbing level easier or harder than the walkerspur? If other persons are in front of you would you say the danger of rock fall is seriously increased?
Looking forward to read some answers to my questions and thanks for your interesting reports of your trips in chamonix. What will be next? :)
With friendly regards
Alban G.