Jonathan Griffith Photography Blog
Foehn has been ripping through the valley over the last two days so that snow is a bit nuked for the moment. We headed up to the Col des Montets to climb the Colonne which is actually really nicely formed for the moment- temps of 5-10 degrees meant the ice was pretty wet but otherwise its all good. The EMHM is looking incredibly fat too from the other side of the valley. The Rive droite is also looking very good. Desperados is maybe looking a little thin as are the routes just by it.
The last few days has seen us on the Berghaus Ator shoot which has been epic so far. Chest deep fluffy powder nearly everywhere, though we did trigger a few slides. All in all though some great skiing days to be had in both Chamonix and Courmayeur for the moment. Climbing wise you arent going to get much done for the moment as the snow is seriously deep and will still be sloughing off the routes. Instead strap on the planks and feast your eyes on these…..
After good conditions report by Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker on the Colton-Brooks, Will Sim and I headed over for our second route on the Droites n face in the last few months. Whilst the speedy pair raced up it in a mere 4.20hrs we managed a less impressive 7.20hrs which made me appreciate how fast they must have been moving as we didnt pitch any it. Awesome effort on their part. Ice on the route is bomber all the way apart from a little delicate on the traverse into the Headwall. You can move together on the whole route its so good.
The Ginat on the other hand is pretty thin and hard ice for the moment. Two PGHM boys came down from it on the same day as we did and spent a rather exhausting 14 hours on it.
Otherwise Kenton Cool, Nick Bullock and Matt Helliker all headed up the Colton-Macintyre the other day. More info can be found on his blog Dream Guides
Will Sim on the first pitch of the Headwall
Just got back down from 2 days up high with Will Sim. Conditions havnt changed much and it is incredibly hot in the sun for the moment. Did the Supercouloir direct which was thin but manageable. The Cosmiques icefall is incredibly dry in places and the ice is hollow and dripping due to the sun…not great to be honest. Lots of parties heading up the Lafaille gully though.
Bumped into a couple of guys who had come down form the Colton-Brookes on the Droites who reported bullet ice on the slopes at the start and not great ice higher up either. Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey went up it today so look forward to hearing another report on it
Will Sim on the direct start to Supercouloir
Me on the second pitch of Supercouloir direct, © Will Sim
Will Sim on the Cosmiques icefall
Numerous parties on Lafaille gully