Burnier-Vogler (III 4, M4) Photo trip report
The Burnier-Vogler is a great climb for those who want to get started in some high mountain ice/mixed routes. Its incredibly quick and easy access from the Midi station means that you dont feel like you are having to undertake a big mountain route. The fact that it is very rarely done is quite a mystery.
The access can be done in two ways. You can either abseil off the Aiguille Du Midi Bridge and down-climb 300m of the Cunningham couloir, or you can climb up part way of the Cosmiques and rappel into the couloir. To access it via the bridge you will have to deal with alot of people gawking at you and taking photos as you launch yourself over a rather airy abseil. By preference, entering via the cosmiques allows you to see what condition the top pitch is in as well as have some peace and quiet.
The rappel point isnt too hard to find but keep an eye out. Basically as you are climbing the cosmiques arete, just before you get to the first mini-abseil there is a very small col. On the left of this on the rock there is a two bolt belay which you have to do a bit of an airy reach for. All the abseils are 55m ones so you will need a 60m rope for this climb. 5 abseils later and you find yourself at the beginning of the route. Ahead of you are 4 pitches of easy warm up ice (70/80 degrees) with bolted belays.
Me on the 2nd pitch. Photo © and thanks to Gavin Pike
The real difficulties only really present themselves on the final pitch which goes at around M4 depending on the current ice conditions. It is really only just a few moves and then onto easy ice so its not a hard pitch.
Andrew Lanham leading the last pitch
Once you arrive at the top you can either complete the rest of the Cosmiques arete and arrive at the Midi, or down-climb to your skis if you bought them and ski down the Vallee Blanche.
On the Cosmiques arete