Cosmiques Couloir Photo Trip Report
The History
The Cosmiques Couloir is one of the top Classic ski descents in Chamonix. Its quick (5 mins) access from the Aiguille Du Midi lift station means that it should be over-run with skiers, however a 100m rapel and a tricky exit means that its neighbour, the Ronde, gets 90% of the traffic. Often thought of as the reserve of the real ski mountaineer you dont have to be a full time climber to be able to get into the couloir- however solid practical knowledge of anchors, abseiling and glacier travel are essential and will guarantee you an often deserted powder paradise whilst your mates are fighting it down the Ronde for those glorious ‘first tracks’.
In true Chamonix style, these off-piste lines arent given the full respect they fully deserve and many people have perished on both the Rondes and Cosmiques couloirs. Whilst its always easy to be complacent its not always those who are inexperienced who lose their lives here. In 2004 Jean-Claude Mosca, an experienced instructor for the Military mountaineering school in Chamonix as well as the first person the climb the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses solo, fell to his death whilst trying to refit a ski. Conditions on these couloirs can change very quickly and what may look like a nice powder descent can easily turn into an icy or rocky nightmare as the Cosmiques also happens to be split in three parts by two rock bands. In good years you can ski on without any difficulties (obviously a bit of traversing may be necessary) whilst other years a rapel may be necessary. It’s also at an angle that is often refered to as a ‘no-fall zone’- due to the steepness of the couloir you may not stop falling until you get to the bottom.
However after all that doom and gloom, if you are a compentant skier and you are sensible about avalanche dangers etc then it is a very rewarding ski. The main problem with this couloir is that people often completely under-estimate the difficulties. This is not a skiers descent but a ski mountaineers descent and its a very important differentiation. Just because it is 5 minutes away from the lift station does not make it any safer; in addition, just because a party might have gone down ahead of you does not make it any safer either. I am only giving these warnings as I myself was caught out on the exit off the Bossons Glacier this year with two friends and it was by no means the first time we had skied down this couloir.
Access
Well as far as epic 800m sustained 40-50 degree couloirs go the access is laughably fast and easy. Once of the Aiguille Du Midi arete just ski tightly under the south face o the Midi towards the Refuge des Cosmiques. There is a small col (if you can call it that) between the Refuge and the Abri Simond Bivi hut. Head over this and the West face of the Midi will drop away below you. On the left hand side you can miss the Cosmiques couloir. Two rappels will take you to an area where you can put your skis on. Check all anchors as some are getting old and in any case rocks move and ab tat weakens over time so be especialy careful at the begining of the season. Its always worth carrying some extra abseil tat on this route.
The Descent
With an initial angle of around 50 degrees it’s certainly a tough warm up and bearing in mind there is a small rock band very close below its worth taking your time here! The snow is often quite icy and hard here but it tends to get better the lower you get. However there is a large feeling of exposure on this route and tis worth keeping your wits about you. Also watch out for the rock bands as some years they can be very tricky to get by. I find that the easiest place to get across them is to head skiers left of them and try and cut across higher rather than lower. If you feel doubtful you can always set up a rapel and in some years there is no choice if the snow is too sparse.
After the first rock band the couloir really starts to open up and the view infront and below is truely breathtaking. Skiing down a sustained 800m powder couloir to the heavily crevassed Bossons Glacier below you can help but feel sorry for those fighting it down the Ronde. Ever careful of avlalanche risk, you swoop down, with every turn bringing you closer to the heavily seraced and imposing north face of the Mont Blanc.
The Exit
Exiting off the couloir is the next potentially dangerous part. As you near the bottom the couloir splits into two with a very prominent ridge dividing the two. You will normally be better off heading down the skiers right split as you will avoid some potentially large crevasses. However if you do head down the left then stick to the far left as there are cliffs below- be careful as it looks enticing to stick to the right but a mate of mine broke his arm there last year.
The exit on the glacier is often the trickiest part of the whole route. Some years you can just ski straight off the glacier without any problems but others it can be a complete nightmare of gaping crevasses, weak snowbridges, and crumbling seracs. Not to put you off or anything but if it’s a bad year and you arent used to glacier travel (at times you may have to take off your skis and either set up a rapel or climb up some ice) then this is not going to be at all enjoyable. In fact it could be a pretty scary scenario. Normally you try and keep as close to the rock as possible but this year involved zig zagging quite alot.
All in all dont just assume that the worst is over is all I’m saying! It’s worth taking you time here and if you feel unsure then there is no harm in roping up.
The exit off the glacier is pretty obvious as its the first patch of snow that you come to on your right. Just keep contouring up as high as you can.
Here you can either keep traversing around to the Midi mid station or you can head down to the old lift station (easily visible). From here there is often an excellent ski down to the tunnel. Oddly enough this can often be the best part of the whole descent if the top couloir has been windblown. Just keep an eye on the cables above and stay to the right of them. You will eventually arrive at another old lift station where you will have to take your skis off and walk down to the Tunnel (about 40mins).
You can either hitch hike home or get a mate to come and pick you up, or of course walk back down (though it’s quite a long way).
