Trip Reports
Climbing Trip Reports
Croz Spur with Slovenian Start ED: Grandes Jorasses
After hearing some good reports from people about the ultra classic Croz spur we headed up the day after we got down from our abortive attempt on the Desecures-Robach. A pleasant bivy at the base under the full moon and we were up and off at 5am…Read More
Peuterey Integral ED: Mont Blanc
Headed up with Luke Hunt for the Peuterey Integral which has been on my tick list for quite a while now. Starting in Italy you cover over 4500m of technical ground over three days (two if you are unbelievably fast and know the raps off the Noire). It’s got just about everything to it and as I’ve never actually summited Mont Blanc before it was nice to finally get that ticked too as well as climbing it via an awesome route…Read More
Colton-Brooks V 5 M: Les Droites
Having done the Ginat a couple of months previously we were pretty psyched to get on the Colton-Brooks and see how it compared. We were lucky enough to catch the Ginat in superb conditions in the Autumn and were pretty sure that conditions on the face hadn’t changed that much. The Colton shares the same start as the Ginat but quickly moves away and instead of heading up the Messner Ramp you go straight up to the right headwall and then follow a series of ice and snow ramps that are superb…Read More
Ginat V 5: Les Droites
The walk in from the Argentiere hut is probably about an hour or so. There are up to three shrunds to cross. The first one is nice and easy and has some very solid ice bridges across it. The second one is a bit more complicated and after a lot of walking up and down it the only way we could get across it was on the left hand side where enough snow has fallen off the face to fill it in…Read More
Kuffner Arete AD+: Mont Maudit
The Kuffner is a great classic of the Mont Blanc range. Its technical difficulties are pretty low but the views are incredible all the way from the start of the Fourche bivouac. The view from the Fourche is one of the best in the range as you get to peer over the massive expanse of the South face of the Mont Blanc…Read more
Choco and Vanilla go Climbing III M6 A1
A new route on the popular Grands montets ridge. It culminates in two fantastic mixed pitches that lead up to the gendarme between Pt Farrar and Pt Gignod. Best of all its about 1 minute ski from the Grand Montets lift station. Fully equipped for abseil descent…read more
Rebuffat gully II, 4: Tour Ronde
The Tour Ronde is a great climb for those wishing to acclimatize on short routes within close distance to the Helbronner lift. Apart from its north face and normal route, you wont find it overcrowded which is more than can be said for its neighbouring climbs on the Tacul East face. The Rebuffat gully climbs an obvious line of ice, snow and mixed sections that brings you to the top of the north face and within about 25 mins form the summit itself…read more
Carrington-Rouse (Rebuffat-Terray) V 5 M
A classic in this area for good reason. This line follows some great ice filled corners and ramps that lead you all the way up the North Face of the Pelerins to the Col des Pelerins on successively hard ice and mixed pitches. It’s also a good way to get away from the crowds at the Midi and even though it is considered a ‘classic’ you wont find it too crowded…read more
Eugster Direct IV 5 M
The North Face of the Aiguille du Midi rises imposingly over the Plan d’Aiguille and anybody who has travelled up the Aiguille du Midi cable car is always struck by how huge the face really is. Many alpinists have their eye on this north face and of all the winter lines this has to be one of the finest…read more
Goulotte Profit/ Perroux III 4, M5
It’s the end of the season and in a desperate hunt for the last of the winter ice I hear of a non-guide book route up off the Cosmiques arete. Its high, its north facing, it could be perfect. A great little winter line for those short days orjust when you cant find anything else in condition…read more
Burnier-Vogler III 4, M4
The Burnier-Vogler is a great climb for those who want to get started in some high mountain ice/mixed routes. Its incredibly quick and easy access from the Midi station means that you dont feel like you are having to undertake a big mountain route. The fact that it is very rarely done is quite a mystery…read more
Petit Capucin: Valeria (IV,4+) and Chippendale (IV,4) Gullies
A great couple of shorter climbs for those wanting to get away from the more crowded East Face of the Tacul. Only requiring an extra half hour or so to get there, these fun and well protected ice and mixed pitches are a good warm up to harder plans ahead…read on
Ski touring trip Reports
Chevalier couloir
A sustained and steep (50 degree) couloir, it is definitely a must do for anyone who wants to start pushing their skiing grade. Quick and easy access with breathtaking views over the Argentiere glacier below makes this a great ski descent…read more
Cosmiques couloir
A classic Chamonix off-piste run and a firm favorite of many out here, this 800m sustained couloir delivers often excellent snow and fantastic views. Coupled with easy access from the Aiguille du Midi, this should be on every off-piste skiers to-do list…read on
Vallee Blanche Full moon ski descent
If you are bored of the crowds of skiers who descent upon Chamonix causing countless hours wasted at lift queues then consider a moon lit descent of the Vallee Blanche and you are guaranteed to be the only skiers on the world’s most popular offpiste ski run. From watching the sunset at nearly 4000m to skiing under the errie full moon light this will be a night to remember…read on
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